most recent 30 from http://chiphacker.com 2010-08-01T09:11:10Z http://chiphacker.com/feeds/tag/smd http://www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/2.5/rdf http://chiphacker.com/questions/3244/what-is-the-best-way-to-heat-sink-a-chip-when-soldering-it-on samoz 2010-07-01T12:46:54Z 2010-07-31T20:07:29Z

<p>I generally like to solder sockets to my boards, rather than the chip directly, but am now forced to solder the chips directly. I have several DIP and SMD components that this needs to be done with.</p> <p>I am concerned that the heat from soldering them might damage the chips so was wondering how I could heat sink them? Is this even necessary?</p> <p>It doesn't apply to me right now, but how is this done with other packages?</p>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/3252/what-kind-of-damage-could-a-soldering-iron-do-to-a-component endolith 2010-07-01T16:24:22Z 2010-07-03T16:31:25Z

<p>As a follow-up to <a href="http://chiphacker.com/questions/3244/what-is-the-best-way-to-heat-sink-a-chip-when-soldering-it-on" rel="nofollow">this question</a>, what kind of damage could a soldering iron do to an IC or other component if left on it for too long at too high a temperature? ESD damage can be subtle, for instance. Is overheating damage usually obvious/complete destruction? I've desoldered/resoldered things by just globbing on a lot of solder and heating it all up, probably using more heat than is recommended, but I've never noticed any damage.</p>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/1530/sizing-smd-components-for-hobbyist-kits jluciani 2010-01-26T17:32:59Z 2010-07-01T05:35:37Z

<p>More components are only available in SMD packages. For hobbyist assembly the options are to buy breakout boards or solder SMD.</p> <p>Since components are usually packaged in a couple of SMD package types I am trying to put together a set of guidelines for choosing packages that are compatible with hobbyist skills and tools. I would consider hobbyist level tools for SMD assembly as -- soldering iron in the $50-$100 range (new), for magnification a $40 visor (like the B&amp;L) and tweezers.</p> <p>For the kits I make now I use the following guidelines --</p> <ul> <li>Passives 0805 or larger</li> <li>Min Lead Pitch for SOIC or QFP -- 0.5mm</li> <li>No QFN, LGA or BGA</li> <li>Prefered package for gates, BJT, FET --- SOT23</li> <li>Diodes SOD123 (or larger)</li> </ul> <p>I am interested in recommendations on component selection, minimum tool requirements and assembly issues. Specific tool changes (like solder tip size) that enabled you to do SMD assembly with your existing tools would be useful too.</p> <p>Thanks.</p> <p>(* jcl *)</p> <p><a href="http://www.wiblocks.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.wiblocks.com</a></p>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/2829/recommended-pcb-houses-assemblers Dirk 2010-06-02T15:52:30Z 2010-06-20T19:57:31Z

<p>Can anyone recommend a good place to go making PCB's? I'm particularly interested in places that also offer assembly, because this makes SMD parts an option. </p> <ul> <li>GoldPhoenix is an option, but not the cheapest.</li> <li>Anyone used OurPCB?</li> <li>Any order time is OK- there is no particular rush, and the slowboat from China is just fine.</li> </ul>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/2379/smd-solder-now-or-later thenoviceoof 2010-04-25T09:11:30Z 2010-04-26T21:04:31Z

<p>I'm soldering up some boards with smd parts, using a hot plate to reflow, and I'm (inevitably) realizing that I got some of the wrong parts. Now, is it better to leave the boards with smd components stuck on them (sitting in wet solder paste) until I can get the other parts, and then do the reflow all at once, or to reflow now, and then paste and heatgun (or just solder iron) the other parts in later? </p> <p>I only have a few parts for which I need to do this, and I can stick the boards in a quiet refrigerator until I get the parts. I might not have ready access to a heat gun later, which is why this isn't a no-brainer (I'm imagining soldering iron+paste isn't the best way to do things, since I can't get to pads under the parts). Personally, I think the real question is whether reflowing twice negatively affects smd components, but context might prove it otherwise. </p>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/1543/specs-on-siliconix-sstc34-t1 Steve 2010-01-28T10:09:04Z 2010-01-28T14:36:43Z

<p>I have been gifted about 2/3 of a reel (2000-ish) of these SOT-23 parts but I cannot locate any data for them. Can anyone point me in the right direction.</p> <p>Through the various datasheet sites I have determined that they are probably an N channel JFet that was obsoleted in 2007. The local dealer in siliconix products was unable (or unwilling) to help.</p> <p>the label on the reel reads:</p> <pre><code> SILICONIX 17856 SSTC34-T1 G45004 (E10) E9612 QA D/C Q9613E QTY 3000 PHILIPPINES 30 MAR 96 </code></pre> <p>The case marking on these is C34</p>