most recent 30 from http://chiphacker.com 2010-08-01T08:59:44Z http://chiphacker.com/feeds/tag/prototyping http://www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/2.5/rdf http://chiphacker.com/questions/2925/cheap-solid-equipment-wire-for-breadboard-from-online-shop 0x2A31 2010-06-09T16:52:59Z 2010-06-09T17:51:19Z

<p>Huge price differences: <a href="http://fi.farnell.com/tyco-electronics-raychem/fldwc0311-0-25-0/wire-0-25mm-black-100m/dp/797972?Ntt=TYCO+ELECTRONICS+/+RAYCHEM+-+FLDWC0311-0.25-0+-+FLEXLITE+WIRE+0.25MM+BLACK+100M" rel="nofollow">Farnell Finland 66.7EUR</a>, <a href="http://cpc.farnell.com/tyco-electronics-raychem/fldwc0311-0-25-2/flexlite-wire-0-25mm-red-100m/dp/CB04715?Ntt=WIRE+0.25MM+RED+100M" rel="nofollow">Farnell UK CPC 23Pounds</a>, cannot find in eBay or Dealextreme, nearly out of stock in CPC Farnell. I need it for breadboard, fast prototyping. Where do you get your solid experiment wire? It can apparently be 22AWG or 24AWG, acccording to <a href="http://chiphacker.com/questions/621/stranded-vs-solid-wire/624#624" rel="nofollow">this reply about stranded VS solid wire.</a></p>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/2511/prototype-options-for-medium-current-application Sean Taylor 2010-05-04T20:00:29Z 2010-05-05T13:41:37Z

<p>Hi there,</p> <p>I'm looking for the best option to develop a medium current (approx 1-2 amps) prototype board.</p> <p>Should I be using perfboard, Vero/stripboard or etching a custom board? Or are there any other options available?</p> <p>Thanks</p>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/2103/when-to-avoid-using-a-breadboard stbtra 2010-03-30T16:49:34Z 2010-04-29T21:47:10Z

<p>What are the cases where one should avoid using a breadboard? e.g. high frequency, noise prone circuits etc.</p>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/1872/is-there-a-more-economical-version-of-this-powersource-prototyper-the-cadet stuckie27 2010-03-14T20:53:41Z 2010-04-29T14:23:20Z

<p>This is what I want....problem is that they are expensive, really expensive ($500). Is there a more economical version?</p> <p><a href="http://tequipment.net/ELCADET2.html" rel="nofollow">http://tequipment.net/ELCADET2.html</a></p> <p><img src="http://tequipment.net/ProductImages/E&amp;L/CADET2_mid.jpg"> Features:</p> <pre><code>* Expanded Removeable breadboard area * Two open collector pulsers * Built-in multi-waveform function generator * Quad voltage power supply: Three DC &amp; one low voltage AC * Functions with optional electronics trainer boards * Built-in logic probe with pulse capture * BCD to 7 segment decoder/display * 8 channel logic indicatorsSpecifications </code></pre> <p>The C.A.D.E.T. II is a Complete Electronics Trainer that includes all the functions needed to teach basic AC/DC, Linear and Digital Electronics courses. The unit contains all the functions of our highly acclaimed original C.A.D.E.T. plus frequently requested features from educators worldwide.</p> <p>The breadboard area is 33% larger than original C.A.D.E.T., holds up to 32 IC's and comes standard as a removable socket plate with velcro. If you prefer, it can be ordered withour bread boards for use with the extensive line of E&amp;L Trainer Boards. The built-in logic probe will detect narrow logic pulses and eliminate the need for extra lab equipment. The BCD to 7 segment display/decoder saves students time when constucting circuits. The Quad Voltage Power Supply has +5 VDC, two variable DC outputs, and a fixed 12.6 VAC center tapped output. The trainer also includes 8 TTL compatible logic switches and two pulsers.</p>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/2215/how-do-i-connect-components-when-using-a-circuit-board-with-pads-but-no-traces Lawrence Johnston 2010-04-13T05:15:30Z 2010-04-19T01:28:39Z

<p>Given a board like <a href="http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=17_21&amp;products_id=187" rel="nofollow">this one</a> with soldering pads but no traces, how would you connect adjacent components (including the ends of the jumpers for longer stretches)?</p> <p>Some possibilities I've come up with:</p> <ul> <li>Solder the individual leads as usual, then bridge the pads with solder.</li> <li>For each connection wrap one of the leads around the adjacent component's lead before soldering the two pads (ensuring there's more than just solder joining the two components).</li> </ul> <p>I started with the former before I came up with the latter (which seems like at least an improvement), but I'm wondering if there's some even better solution I haven't come up with yet.</p>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/1601/prototyping-a-part-with-2mm-spacing-on-0-1-matrix-board Mat 2010-02-15T19:26:58Z 2010-04-14T19:06:39Z

<p>I have an Airwave <a href="http://www.active-robots.co.uk/airwave-58ghz-wireless-rf-av-receiver-module-p-1263.html" rel="nofollow">AWM682RX</a> 5.8GHz video received and matching AWM683TX transmitter module. Oddly, one has pins spaced at 0.1", the other at 2mm.</p> <p>So, <strong>what's the best way to make a part with 2mm spaced pins fit on 0.1" matrix board?</strong></p>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/621/stranded-vs-solid-wire SaM 2009-11-23T23:23:49Z 2010-04-08T10:28:53Z

<p>What are the advantages of stranded vs solid wire?</p> <p>what should i be using for prototyping circuits?</p>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/472/pcb-prototyping-with-presensitized-copper-boards H3liosphan 2009-11-16T00:49:10Z 2010-03-04T23:59:53Z

<p>Hi all.<br /> Not entirely sure if this applies to ChipHacker, if it doesn't, I apologise for posting. But it definitely applies to the subject of electronics in general.<br /> Im currently working on my first PCB prototyping by using some pre-sensitized PCB board, purchased here - </p> <p><a href="http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2033" rel="nofollow">Maplins UK</a></p> <p>However I'm having terrible trouble exposing and developing the board, it just never seems to turn out right. I haven't even reached the etching stage yet because I'm not happy with the presensitized developing results.<br /> I'm looking for general tips and tricks, and how to follow the right 'path' to success - I seem to be getting worse at it for some reason! ;-)<br /> I am using inkjet transparency sheets with the darkest tone applied for the mask, and after noticing you can see light thru the printed areas on the mask, I decided to double up, and sellotaped two identical transparencies aligned on top of each other. You can hold it up to the light and still see a kind of dull purple glow, but it is mostly opaque. I acknowledge this may be one of the causes of my troubles!<br /> I started off using a normal 100watt lightbulb, with little success, exposures seemed to take 40 mins and beyond to have any effect at all and get very warm.<br /> I used to hold the mask down onto the board using glass, but after realising glass blocks a lot of UV light, I decided to switch to a sheet of clear acrylic.<br /> I then found a cheap portable UV sterilizer, which actually claims to emit UV-C light, I know UV-A is the type required to expose the board as far as I can work out but it seems to be having a much quicker effect, I see an effect even after just two minutes exposure. The manual states it uses a "Long life 4 watt germicidal UV lamp", and yes, its not what you'd call bright. The longest exposure I have done so far is about six minutes, and I still saw the same problem (See below).<br /> According to their site, the boards are supposedly developed using a caustic soda solution. On all of my attempts, I am seeing the circuit pattern appear, but the developed copper which is to be etched away ends up nowhere near as shiny as I'd expect it to be - I am expecting the photoresist layer to completely dissipate resulting in exposed shiny copper - going by a lot of those reference pcb etching sites on the internet. Instead I end up with varying degrees of random areas of shiny copper but mostly dull copper (partially disolved photoresist), and other areas complete bluey greeny photoresist layer.<br /> I haven't tried etching yet, but its not difficult to see why I expect such a poorly exposed and developed board to poorly etch too. I can't imagine the 'mostly dull copper' areas will etch at all given the photoresist is only partially dissipated.<br /> I'm cutting off small areas of my two medium sized pre-sensitized boards for testing purposes, and I'm running out quickly!<br /> So I am unclear and am proceeding very slowly because of all these variables -<br /> -Not sure about exposure time (for my lamp).<br /> -Not sure about UV light position and height required.<br /> -Not sure if my mask pattern is opaque enough (to UV light).<br /> -Not sure about correct proportions of caustic soda to water<br /> -Not sure about time to leave the board in the caustic soda - whether I'm going too far developing.<br /> -Not sure about dipping in water to stop the development - Can you put it back in the caustic soda to continue development if you didn't leave it in long enough? Also how can you tell!?<br /> -I also dont know if a developed pre-sensitized board stays so, and wont fade as its left in daylight over time. How long before normal daylight affects a pre-sensitized developed board? </p> <p>Any help anybody could give me would be appreciated. I haven't kept a decent log of my activities, to learn effectively, because I thought I'd have nailed it by now! However I can provide pictures of my efforts so far, if need be.<br /> Thanks so much! </p> <p>Stu</p>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/1563/using-arduino-to-program-amtel-avrs-via-icsp-header Rob 2010-02-03T23:50:50Z 2010-02-09T03:27:42Z

<p>I have an Arduino (NG) board with an ATMEGA168 AVR micro. The board has a 6 pin ICSP header. Here is what I propose to do, please tell me if it is possible:</p> <ul> <li>Remove current ATMEGA168 IC</li> <li>Replace with a new AT AVR of similar series</li> <li>Plug in the programmer to the ICSP header on the Arduino</li> <li>Use avrdude software to program the AVR</li> <li>Remove AVR and install in a socket on my project board and replace the original ATMEGA168 AVR</li> <li>Continue to use the Arduino as normal</li> </ul> <p>I have also thought about installing the 6 pin ICSP header on my project board so I can tweek the software with the chip in place. If I implement this part of the arduino circuit on my project would this be possible.</p> <p><a href="http://mintmedia.co.nz/File:ATMEGA168%5FICSP%5Fschematic.png" rel="nofollow">Schematic</a></p>

http://chiphacker.com/questions/851/manufacturing-qualification-and-sale ppvi 2009-12-04T10:31:25Z 2009-12-04T18:24:28Z

<p>I'm thinking about selling a small batch of a simple gadget that would have some electronics inside.</p> <p>If I want to use an online shop and sell it worldwide, what are the certifications and licenses to be aware of? </p> <p>If I qualify something for the UE, can it be sold to the USA?</p>